Monday, October 8, 2012

Lisette Souvenir Muslin

, originally uploaded by firesheep67.

I FINALLY started sewing! It only took me approximately FOUR years. This weekend I traced off the Lisette blouse pattern onto Swedish tracing paper, then pinned out my traced pattern pieces to the muslin, cut, and then tried to transfer the markings. First I wanted to use the Dritz paper (must look up the name), but after owning it for approximately four years, it doesn't seem to work (or I was using it wrong). So I moved on to the Clover Chacopy, which worked fine, but may not be appropriate for the final version of the blouse.

In the end, I got a muslin, albeit with not enough sleeve cap. I was able to figure out what I did wrong by studying some close-ups online. Essentially, I sewed the bias tape too far from the sleeve cap, then I trimmed 3/8" off the seam allowance, and then I proceeded to wrap the edge of the sleeve with the bias tape. WRONG WRONG WRONG!!!

What I should have done was...(at step 10 I believe):
1. stitch the sleeve cap to the bias tape (right side to right side, using a 3/8" seam allowance
2. press the seam as written
3. trim the seam as written
4. stitch along the BIAS tape side edge (just like the inside edge of the yoke), through the seam
5. then stitch 1/2" in, along the sleeve cap, through the folded over bias tape, so that the bias tape is stabilizing the sleeve cap - NOT seen from the outside of the sleeve

Since I didn't do this, I ended up cutting away the two circles, that are to be matched up when joining the sleeves to the yokes, and I was short approximately 3/8" of an inch where the sleeves meet the yoke - which you can clearly see in the photo.

Next step is to cut two new sleeves, stitch them up and then check the sleeve cap fit. I get the impression that the sleeve cap is a bit too puffy for me and I most likely need to alter it. I also left this muslin unhemmed. Think I want to curve the hem, as I don't like the boxy look. Finally, I may alter the sleeve cuffs and put a small slit in them.

Although I used the machine for the gathering stitches, on the final version, I will do this by hand to get a smoother, more fluid look. I also think this blouse is begging for embroidery on the yoke, but will do this on V2. Right now I just want to have a wearable garment. I'm spending time on sewing the muslin "correctly" because until now, most of the sewing I've done has just been practice bits, not an actual garment. I need to master the techniques, so will (for now) sew up the muslins with (almost) the same level of care I would use for the final garments.

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